[928uk] Motor Mounts
Richard Armstrong
richard at ritech-systems.com
Mon Feb 9 09:52:32 GMT 2004
Smiffy
I thought I could get away without removing the wheels - once the lower
suspension is disconnected it's difficult to loosen the wheelnuts.
Some of the bolts are difficult to get to such as upper crossmember
crossbolts (steering gets in the way). Those two horizontal bolts were
the most difficult to remove and replace, and when I pulled the
crossmember back into place I managed to distort the brace on one side
(fairly flimsy bit of tin between the rear of the upper suspension mount
and the crossmember - it is important though). There is not much space
to work in and it is important to ease the brace into the crossmember as
you tighten the bolts. ( I had to undo the upper suspension mount and
bugger around until I got the brace in line).
You will need a long Tommy bar, and a piece of tube to get enough
leverage on some fixings, so the car will have to be raised as high as
poss (I had a lift and a pit).
The rack bolts aren't captive, but that's just an irritation, I found
all the 8mm 'T' bolts holding the rack support plate were either sheared
or buggered when the rack was replaced last year. Not very impressed (it
was an outfit in London called RGA I think). I ended up remaking them by
tig welding in some stainless threads.
The steering hydraulic tubes and main supply to the starter that get in
the way a bit but once the crossmember has been dropped and rotated to
the side the mounts come out easily, and they had completely collapsed
by about 30mm.
Putting everything back together was much easier, but It is difficult to
get the suspension back in place without another pair of hands. Biggest
hassle was afformentioned upper brace.
I reckon it's a two day job, or a bloody long one day job. Its not
surprising that the OPCs charge about £1k total for it.
Richard
>re: If anyone is considering it contact me off list 'cos
>there are a few pitfalls to be avoided.
>
>Tell us all your "pitfalls".
>
>Smiffy
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