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Joels email was good enough to post as an article in its own right Thanks Joel for permission and pictures. Anyone else got articles like this.. just send them to me - Angus
New engine mounts for a Porsche 928
Click for full resolution pictures of a Porsche 928 engine mount and an aftermarket replacement
Well a few weeks ago Matt H dropped me an email about engine mounts. I
had an order coming over from the US and after spending a couple of
hours on rennlist I decided to go for the solid rubber Anchor mounts
at $30 each from www.928sRus.com. At that price I figured it didn't
really matter if they were slightly inferior to the Porsche mounts at
£200+ each, and Roger who sold them to me insisted (having installed 5
sets) that they were in fact superior to the hydraulic items.
Matt suggested that I bring the car up to his barn so we could install
the mounts. The procedure is as follows:
- put car up on ramps under front wheels
- remove air box and tubing
- remove cross member cover
- unbolt anti-roll bar and swing downwards
- unbolt earth strap on RHS
- remove heat shields
This takes a little while. Your heat shields may be badly rusted and
are held on by 2 10mm bolts that you need to unscrew from above.
You'll need a 10mm stubby ratchet spanner.
- remove cross strut from engine bay (requires a 6mm or 7mm hex key)
- jack engine up until just touching the firewall
Smiffy recommends jacking the engine from one side (the side which you
are removing the mount from, then swap over to the other side). We
actually found that jacking from the centre of the sump got it up just
as high, but your mileage may vary.
Be very, very careful when jacking the engine. Have your assistant
feel the front wheels for the first traces of lightness - this will
indicate that the engine has gone as far upwards as it can and you
should jack no further.
You may find that jacking, gently releasing and re-jacking the engine
gets it further. You get a slightly different lift each time. Hoisting
the engine from above is not necessary.
- unbolt the engine mounts from their brackets (19mm bolt from above).
- unbolt the EM brackets from the block (2 bolts from below).
- separate the mounts from the brackets
You will now be able to jiggle the EM, bracket and circular plate
around freely in the gap. At this point you will probably be thinking
'how the hell am I ever going to get this damn thing out?'. Make a cup
of tea.
- fiddle, fiddle fiddle until you can remove first the bracket, then
the mount. In our case the LHS mount came out after the braket and
plate. On the RHS we could not unbolt the old mount from its bracket
so they had to come out in 1 piece.
** If it looks impossible, release and rejack the engine. Remember you
will get a different lift each time. Perseverance is the key.
- You've now got the old mounts out - congratulations. This may have
taken you an hour or two, so time for another cup of tea and then you
need to get the new mounts in.
- We had to use an angle grinder to reduce the length of the bolt on
the new engine mount as it was just too long to fit in, especially as
the new mount will be a lot bigger than the compressed and collasped
old mount.
- It took Matt a solid 30 minutes of fiddling to arrange the plate,
new mount and bracket successfully 'in situ' on the LHS which we did
first. There was in fact no need to remove the oil filter on my S2.
This is the part that is like solving a rubik's cube one handed in the
dark.
- on the RHS it was a 2 man job. Firstly have your assistant hold the
bracket in place, but held tight vertically as high as you can
(against the block). Person 2 manoeuvres the new mount into place with
the circular plate underneath the bracket. Person 1 then takes the
upward pressure off the bracket and it all drops into place. You may
need to use a mallet and a long screwdriver to get the plate to hook
onto the bracket in the correct way. Again, allow half an hour to an
hour just for this bit.
- You're now ready to release the engine down and bolt up.
The heat shields are a bitch to get back on - you may have to bolt
them in reverse by threading a bolt upwards through the captive nut
(we did). Replacing the original and knackered bolts with stainless
steel is a smart move.
- Bolt everything back on in reverse order. Don't forget the cross
strut in the engine bay and be careful with it - I've read tales of
windscreens cracking when this is removed.
- Don't forget the earth strap and anything else you may have disturbed.
- Don't forget to release the steering lock before you do up the
anti-roll bar (d'oh)
When you've got everything back on, start the engine and rev it.
Marvel at the way it rocks from side to side and tell yourself it was
time well spent. Go for a spin.
Joel
PS: thanks very much to Matt who gave up 3 sundays for this, and Paul
ukkid for moral support.
Click the picture for more pictures (External Link)
Joel - Thanks for the super article and pictures
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